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In 1974, John Porter and I were bivouacked below the West Face of the Dru. With only hearsay information about the route, we were prepared for a light wall; food and gear for three bivouacs, 30 pitons and nuts, 45 biners and six etriers, one pair of jumars, 2 hammers, ice axes, and crampons. Rene Ghilini and a friend were also there for the same route; they brought a bit of chocolate and dried fruit and cookies, one etrier apiece, 3 pitons, 1 hammer, 20 biners, 1 axe, crampons, and down jackets for the bivvy. The next morning, they were off like rockets and we didn’t see them again until the jammed block bivouac when it was obvious who was doing the climb right. The next night we bivouacked on the moraine in the rain while they were drinking beer in Chamonix, and the next day, we staggered  exhausted into town while they were ready for another climb.

"...try doing pullups with weights around your waist. Start with 5 lbs. and keep increasing in 5 lb. increments. For me, each 5 lbs. decreases my performance by 20%!"

In 1981, Mark Richey and I went to the Alps on a three week field test for some of our new lightweight gear. In 18 days we climbed the North Faces of the Matterhorn, Jorasses, and Eiger as well as s the Central Pillar of Freney. After over 200 pitches, our light gear was still almost in perfect condition and we were physically as fresh as when we started. My impression that light is right was confirmed. In fact, right after the Matterhorn, I got on a scale in the Zermatt train station still wearing my climbing cloths, boots, and pack. I weighed around 200 lbs., only 35 lbs. over my body weight. Most guys have that in their packs alone for a day of ice climbing at Frankenstein! Throw in the average pair of boots, clothing and extras and you’re talking another 15-20 lbs. To get an idea of how important each pound is when you’re climbing hard climbs where you can’t afford to haul the pack, try doing pullups with weights around your waist. Start with 5 lbs. and keep increasing in 5 lb. increments. For me, each 5 lbs. decreases my performance by 20%!

Here is a chart showing some of the ways to cut down weight without going beyond conventional alpine norms.

* We have climbed at least 2000 alpine pitches with a double nine and prefer a single rope for its ease of handling and light rope drag (the 7mm is in the sack). If you really wanted to go light, take a 165 10.5mm and leave the 7mm behind. This way you’ll save three pounds. Of course, if the rope gets cut, or you have to rappel 2000 feet or so, you’re out of luck.

Of course, these lists don’t include all that you need but they do show a few ways to save weight and make alpine climbing speedy and fun the way it’s supposed to be. If you don’t think twelve pounds is much, try the pullup test with twelve pounds around your waist. Remember, “Light is Right."

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