Americans enjoyed much success in Asia’s mountains during 2011, none more
significant than on Saser Kangri II in India’s East Karakoram, winner of the Piolet d'Or 2012. Video by Vinicio Stefanello (Planetmountain.com) & Francesco Mansutti for the Piolets d'Or 2012. Courmayeur, Chamonix - Mont Blanc.
The ascent of Saser Kangri II - the second highest previously unclimbed mountain in the world - is an example of classic exploratory alpinism and committed alpine style climbing at high altitude.
More Stories //
Chugach Gravity Research
Peter Ostroski shares photos and insights from his winter of snow in Alaska. Read More //
The Shell Game
Some tips for choosing the right raingear for the conditions from Mike Boardman. Read More //
The Wild Things Fleece Wind Pro Hoody
Jeff Shapiro reports on fabric, fit, and function of this hard-faced fleece jacket. Read More //
The Wild Things Insulated Belay Jacket
Mike Boardman breaks down the details of this reinvented, classic cold weather parka. Read More //
Slaying A Giant
Mark Richey recaps his first ascent of what was the second highest unclimbed peak in the world, Saser Kangri II. Read More //
Bright is Right
John Bouchard talks about intelligent risk management as gear becomes lighter. From our 1986 catalog. Read More //
The First Ten Years
John Bouchard recaps the first ten years of Wild Things. From Wild Things 14, our 1991 catalog. Read More //
Marie-Odile "Titoune" Meunier
Climbing hasn't changed Titoune's life. It's the only life our founder has ever known. Read More //
Dispatches
Slaying a Giant
First ascent of what was the second highest unclimbed peak in the world, Saser Kangri II
Trip Report By Mark Richey • January, 2012
In August, the highly accomplished team of Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson climbed the south west face of Saser Kangri II, in India’s East Karakoram, to make the first ascent of what was the second highest unclimbed peak in the world. They also achieved one of the highest, summit first ascents ever climbed in alpine-style. It doesn’t get much wilder than that.
Although the technical difficulties on the 1,700 meter face went smoothly, the team confronted an unexpected medical emergency when a sinus infection suffered by Swenson worsened into a serious respiratory problem just after reaching ABC. Steve’s condition was serious as he coughed up large, glue- like clumps of phlegm that would block his airway periodically, preventing him from breathing. Fearing for his life, Mark and Freddie used their SAT phone to initiate a rescue effort through Global Rescue, the American Alpine Club, the American Embassy in Delhi, and Rimo Expeditions.
Loading...